I was pretty sure it was pushbutton, but I only rode in it once. Let's just be happy that there is ultimately a solution to those who want to do an 80e swap, even if it is over priced. Fork wear, problems can also be caused by control module or pushbutton switch. Looks like I have more reading to do. I have one that I'm going to use in a future project.
We can help you remove the questions marks and possibilities of getting a poorly re-built transfer case. The re-splined units that have been used for years now have had a grand total of zero failures to date and are in some very heavy and very powerful trucks. Like the transmission this is not my top priority right now but would appreciate any information about it. My only question is why? Not trying to take over your thread. Personally, I'd rather go ahead and get a fresh build though. I have never done this type of project before so whit that being said what should I be looking for if I buy a rebuilt engine? I can't realistically drive around in 4hi.
The 263 electric shift and the 261 manual shift will bolt in. Also it looks like I will need a new radiator and electric fan. Here's a good writeup on how it operates. Is it to make it lighter or something? Since I use the truck for racing. It saved my Bravada from major hail damage golf ball or bigger sized hail.
Telco wrote:On the driveshaft I wouldn't let that be a stopper. They shortened the rear shaft and made a new front shaft. It would bolt up, but then you would have to run the smaller slip yoke on the driveshaft. Does anyone know if this manual is worth buying or if there is any other manual out there that would be worth buying? My question is if I buy the craigslist engine should I change out the gaskets or anything else right away? These adapters are for sale by a fellow named time2kill on. The transfer case on the other hand I am not sure what the problem is.
But it seems like there's nothing out there that will fit the bill, so I'll probably just leave it as is. Transmission: I would like to put a manual transmission in my vehicle. I figure it will be about a month or so before I get everything together to begin the swap so in the mean time I will keep doing research on this and I will post back here as i come up with more questions. After doing some research I have a few questions. I was not aware of that. My friend has a trailblazer he wrecked.
It ignites at 883 degrees, and welding can get up to 3300 degrees. I believe it was used from about 2001-2005. I think they used the 3500 in all the half tons whether it be a small block or V6 starting in the late 80's. If anyone is interested I will take pictures and post some sort of guide of this swap. They just cut the yokes off and install them on a longer tube. With all the s10 swaps being done these days, this is now an easy task.
What year S-10s did this come in? And, there will need to be clearance for the front driveshaft which may be a problem from the new location, and then could be a problem with the deflection angle between the output of the transfer case and the rear differential since the case would be closer to the rear axle. There are Sy's and Ty's running 9's and 10's in the quarter on the stock transfercase not the stock trannies though. Some people say use 2. There is no such thing as a right to a car — or a tonsillectomy. I find myself trying to figure out options for my '58. Failing encoder motor can also cause slipping, and does not totally engage. As for why, just looking for better traction in daily driving situations.
By the time you count your time and the money needed to freshen the 100K engine up you'll have the cost of a long block. I thought about that as well, I wonder if the 4L80 would survive? I'm not sure how well something like that would work on a vehicle without any form of traction control. It ignites at 883 degrees, and welding can get up to 3300 degrees. If it does I will give a link so you guys can see what I am talking about. It cost something like 100 or 150 bucks, don't remember which. Is it a better idea to just spend the extra money and get a rebuilt engine will make this take more time as I will have to come up with extra money? I am trying to educate myself on this swap as much as I can before I get started so i don't make any costly time and money mistakes.