Unfortunately reading these things accurately is not my forte and I'm still learning, so I just wanted to attempt to clarify with you all. I also had to push another 16 gauge wire through, but forgot before these pics. The side with the black sheath is the normal fuel pump power supply, but we are going to cut it and use it to trigger the relay. Scott Oh Ok so the Vane is the Butterfly air pass through on the intake throttle body? Oh Boy I am confused. I hear that is hard to get to. To really test it you should get a fuel compatible pressure gauge, disconnect the fuel pressure damper and connect the gauge to the rail there and see what the pressure is. In this video, I'm trying to twice accelerate 2nd gear all the way to red line and the car is stopping me by cutting off my throttle.
Thickness Gauge f »04M» Clearance between lever and stop screw Between terminals Resistance 0 mm 0 in. Thanks Scott Generally, you'll hear it flowing through the fuel rail. Or should I disconnect the fuel line from the regulator and see if fuel pumps out of fuel line 2? Does it blow the fuse with the fuel pump disconnected? If not, check the intake system for leakage. So tempted to modify the boot floor to add a decent access panel, as I will probably have to drop the tank even to sort the wiring. There's a switch in it which is open if the vane is closed and prevents the fuel pump from powering up. I supplied direct 12v to the pump and heard nothing and got nothing through to the fuel rail. And its not the oxygen sensor circuit, I checked that as well.
I'm buying a new relay. Sure enough, a spring inside the relay had fallen from it's position preventing the fuel pump from ever getting 12v. I already told you before. Obviously there are no codes stored as the fuse has gone; any suggestions? That was what my problem was, ended up being a loose number 15? Unfortunately info is hard to come by on these. Thanks a ton -Ben TooGoode, I read your previous post and looked at my throttle plate area and its fine. You can see here in these passes that the fuel pump voltage never exceeds 9.
I am wondering if I should do it. Since I don't have the tools to measure the pressure can I just open up the cold start line and then make the jump to see if it pumps fuel? You don't have to change this, as I have not seen any problems running it this way, unless you are picky and want to have it exactly the same as the turbo configuration. In addition, the Fuel Pump is normally fed through a resistor to reduce the voltage fed to it. I apologize for my electrical ignorance. At first I just had mine connected to the ignition switch. Hopefully those of you smarter than I can decipher my ramblings and my situation and can come back with a more definitive answer. This is done by supplying power from the starter wire to the relay coil which has a constant ground.
If the fuse blows the problem is past the relay. It's not the voltage that changes it's the current flow. I tested the relay yesterday following these specs: and it was definitely bad. But at the same time, with the above pictured relay unplugged the fuse did not blow, so something is going on with it, or the wiring behind it, right??? I found the thread on replacing it but I am wondering where is the best place to open up the system to see if it is pumping anything. The 12v light would just be telling me which leads are grounding out correct? So if it does not do this you do the short Fp B+ Since you said that made it work, then.
Checked Lisa's car and no continuity across either. Is it best to disconnect the fuel line before the filter and see if it can pump through on cranking? And maintain engine speed at 2,500 rpm. If anyone knows how to get ahold of some free wiring diagrams online, that would be cool. Since I don't have the tools to measure the pressure can I just open up the cold start line and then make the jump to see if it pumps fuel? I would have to get the tool to measure the pressure I was just hoping to find a way to see if it is working at all. Most of the trouble shooting proceedures you need to go though are located here: Give it a thorough read. Hi guys, I'm new to supras, so bear with me! Have you checked for error codes yet as I've mentioned a dozen times? The injectors control the fuel input to each cylinder so, shut off on overrun while the regulator controls the pressure in the fuel rail.
Oops the vane seems to be in the Air flow sensor? There is no logic in it whatsoever. There are a few options available but I'm still doing some research on them. The fuse normally does Not blow until I try to actually start the car normally its still ok when the ig is just On. I can't imagine it will be hard to find a proper unit form a scrapper. I hope after all this, you aren't confused too much.
Disconnect the pump at the tank and try again. And would it be causing this? Is there any way on this setup to account for something like that? It is unlikely the relay is bad do the checks I suggested, sorry about the 5 pin mixup, its 4 pins. When re-installing, be sure to include the rubber protectors on the upper surfaces of the fuel tank and tank band. I found the box next to the fuse box. Keep narrowing down the problem area. The Fuel Pump Speed Control system is designed to reduce electrical demand and pump wear when fuel demand is low while delivering adequate fuel volume when demand is high.
Cold Start Injector Time Switch 12. I would start by measuring resistance between the case and the 5 connectors. In terms of finding my short, does this still mean that 1. I guess if this car gets hit hard enough at this point to knock me out I may as well go with it. I have run many swap without this without any problems or any changes in gas mileage. Apply the proper torque to all tightening parts. I can see a reason to do it and a reason not to as well.
It's a simple relay that is activated when it detects a low voltage pulse, like a tach pulse. I am not a pro at this by any means. One way you could go is is the fuel computer provided by Aeromotive. You also need to look for chaffed cables particularly around the front of engine where they get baked as they go over cam gear. Why didn't Toyota make that access panel big enough to get the pump out? Could it be a bad fuel relay? Off to Retro Rides tomorrow in the Skoda then. The indicated measured voltage with pump in circuit obviously changes as a result.