Rebalance of the flywheel does not affect the rest of the the assembly. I'd worry more about having the assembly centerlines lined up as close as possible. For the cost a automotive machine shop charges for properly surfacing a flywheel there is no way in hell I would do it in my shop. Flexplate bolts to the adapter and torque converter. No response after 4 weeks of calling them has left me frustrated and I finally gave up on them. Lay the flywheel mounting surface on something flat and run a dial indicator from one side to the other. Mathematically, the difference of these extreme values is circular run-out.
Overall thickness of the flywheel there is no spec for it, I could measure it with a vernier caliper but what good would that number do me without a spec to compare it too, I have generally heard don't cut a flywheel more then 3 times but that is pretty broad statement. The local auto wholesalers pimp lathe resurfaced flywheels from Standard Flywheel. This leads me to believe that the mounting flange area was not perpendicular to the cut, causing more material to be removed exactly 180 degrees from the highest spot. To measure this, selection of planes is necessary. Discuss this with the shop and get there opinion on the matter. For long components, it is advisable to separate sectional planes equidistant almost 100 mm. At zero degree what is the reading, not down at 90 degree reading, 180 deg reading, 270 deg reading and finally again 0 degree reading.
If you have a dial indicator mounted on the back of the block with the plunger on the face of the flywheel and your not careful you will measure the end play in the crank bearing rather than the face of the flywheel and your readings will be all over the place. It is measured by placing a gage on the part, and rotating the part through 360 degrees. Where id the warm side of a refrigeration system? From what I've seen pulled out of running cars and trucks there are lots of vehicles driving down the road with 10X that much runout. Played around all morning, using aluminum foil as shimstock and now have just. But the perpendicular axis has shifted ever so slightly - so will aluminum foil shim of.
Are you talking about hard spots? When measured using dial indicator, two extreme values are obtained for a specified sectional plane. Now think about this for a second. Turning down below those hard spots is going to take a serious amount of metal off, probably more than was ever spec'ed for removal in refinishing. Do not shim the flywheel. Bore Runout radial eccentricity of the Flywheel: 1. Take the flywheel back to the shop and have them correct the problem and rebalance the flywheel.
Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 900. This flywheel was lightly cut once so it already provides space for a Moss seal. Overall thickness of the flywheel there is no spec for it, I could measure it with a vernier caliper but what good would that number do me without a spec to compare it too, I have generally heard don't cut a flywheel more then 3 times but that is pretty broad statement. With the lathe you have to cut out or below the hard spots for a good finish. I would not use anything as a shim as torquing the bolts will put strain against the flywheel mating surface.
My main question here is what do people usually get for a number or is there a spec for it somewhere I am missing? They do have a nice web site presentation - but so what. The crankshaft hub runout is consistently 0. Make it right and save yourself head aches down the road. I don't worry about it too much, because the flywheel is never going to wear evenly afterwards anyways, even if it were ground truly flat. Regarding DiggerDougs' post above ,this one was a flat one, no recess ,but I have done the other type ,that would have added another dimension that I was glad wasn't there. I've found a machine shop with a lathe large enough to do the work, but it would be their first time so I'm looking for a machinist with some flywheel lightening experience. I might be blind but I can not find a spec in the manual for runout on the flywheel.
The disc rides on the clutch gear input shaft which is supported in the pilot bearing in the back of the crank. These days it would be next to none. By definition, run-out refers to error of roundness or form measured along a specified sectional plane from the axis. I was fortunate to see another fellow install it and it will help to do this on my own engine. Force the crankshaft the same way before the indicator is read so the crankshaft end clearance movement is always removed.
Install the 3 and make adjustment of the universal attachment 4 so it makes contact as shown. Ever since then, I've checked every flywheel that comes along, by referencing the crankshaft mounting surface with a right angle indicator. Only thing I will say is that if the flywheel has a bunch of cracks on the clutch face when it comes in, might as well pitch it in the trash. I then took a simple round bushing to simulate the throwout bearing, and using the quill of the tailstock, could acutate the clutch. We check parallelism at work like this all the time. The difference of extreme values along the axis is called axial or total run-out. Thanks for the replies ,pretty much confirms what I thought ,I am hoping that the fella I did it for will let me know if the problem is solved ,he's going to put a new clutch in as well so we will never be sure.
I've turned them both ways, in a lathe, and on a rotary table in a mill with a cup grinding wheel. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator 90. I'll just slap it in and not worry about it so much lol. Thanks for your reply, The pilot was centered on the crank of the 6. What makes you say that ,they are made on a lathe in the first place ,at least the ones I am talking about are. Readings of circular run-out obtained using dial indicators are: Section Plane -1: Max:1. Since we don't know anything about how this happened, who knows if it is actually shipping damage or a manufacturing defect.