When I redid my engine and had the tranny out, we added the kit. He called looking for help on a 2004 Ford Freestar that he could not get to leave his shop. I pulled the dipstick to make sure, the tranny fluid smelled kinda funny, and there were chunks of material on the dipstick, assummingly pieces of my clutch packs. The Statesman has no harsh 1-2 shift at all, but does have the downshift delay although it's not as long it seems. Most questions are too vague and not enough info provided. Something tells me this requires some skill and practice too.
Hang on before you get all worked up thinking your trans is blowing up. But once I was in there I said what the hell, just be careful. After doing a ton of reading and corresponding on forums, the consensus I formed was that I should first address common driveability items like a new fuel filter, and if that didn't work, tackle the transmission. Last, but not least, check the booster valve. The internal piston might be worn on it's pin and cause problems.
I checked the trans out with all the road test and scanner and decided to go for the pull and put it back on the bench. Check the internal wiring harness for any breaks in the wires or insulation. I asked him what the previous failure was and he indicated that it was a problem with a 2 nd gear slip. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Look for signs of wear. On older cars, this was not a big problem.
Ask if they can get me a rebuild and put some stuff in it? Later on I decided to rebuild the tranny as I had it out of the truck again. From 1st to 2nd it would snap your neck. It even has a video on how to do it and what to expect. Taking a look at the factory manual, I saw that the 2000-2003 model year valve body did not have a 1-2 capacity modulator valve and used a check ball B10 to orifice intermediate clutch oil to control shift feel. Worst case: poor line pressure rise see below. That transmission is still being redesigned by Hydra-Matic! Drop the pan and check the fluid.
Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result. Cheaper to rebuild now saves further damage to hard parts , but requires removal and rebuild. Not if you do it your self. What does the alt have to do with shifting its charging 14. If you can afford Gilbert's advice, follow it because he is right. Those are the simple things. First, check the condition of the spring found inside the accumulator.
I would like to have a quick firm progresive feeling shift. I've got a 99 Yukon, bought her with 67k miles on the clock a couple years ago. So is it holding two gears??? Feels like 2 whole seconds! Remove transmission and rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak. Nice and quick smooth transitions through the gears and it's perfectly timed and best of all the shift feels amazingly positive, the car accelerates much better because of the smooth 1-2 positive shift. I guess they all could play a part. Usually when the 4L60 starts having 1-2 shift problems, especially shudder, the accumulator is worn.
No, I don't think we have met yet. However, the problem happened to be with a broken harness wi … re. Are you able to see the datastream for the trans? It was not setting any codes and from what the shop could tell everything with the vehicle and load sensors were working properly. And, the hotter you get it. But now my problem is back in the last month or so. Can anything be done there? I did them both at the same time and the total cost, including shipping and 5 qts. I would suggest you bring it in to one of our locations and we will check it for you and go from there.
May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. You then need more throttle to make it downshift and accelerate as desired. I'd definitely check into this before spending gobs of money on a rebuild or anything. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken. Unlike your problem, mine doesnt go away when warmed up. I am studying and measuring three valve bodies this week - a brand new one and two used ones.
If they are familiar with the Sonnax kit to fix the 4L60E - they will also likely have the reamer already. If the B10 check ball was missing, un-orificed oil flow into the intermediate clutch would cause a harsh 1-2 shift. As vehicles age and acquire mileage, working parts tend to naturally lose efficiency during the life of the vehicle. Well it's been past a year since my op but it's still alive! When I drive the vehicle at half operation temp, it'll shift hard from 1-2. I trust that someone was dumping fluid in as it was coming out? Hey all, Sorry for this noobish post. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Then I saw this post.