Figure 13 Rear Wheel Bearing-Remove the 5mm Allen head fastener that holds the brake rotor to the axle flange. You might get lucky and be able to slide on the new bearing by hand. I prefer taking the two inner lower control arm mounting fasteners red arrows out and dropping the lower control arm. I recommend new bolts or at least buying Loctite I did both, as I figured 4 out of 8 would be good. We only offer parts we know you can trust to perform! Since you are reusing it, you will want to be careful with it. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues.
So would you say the hubs are the same too? Tapered spigot and bore both free of grease. We only offer parts we know you can trust to perform! We only offer parts we know you can trust to perform! E46 M3, Z4 M Front Wheel Hub Assembly with Bearing. Ok, I will try to use some unorthodox terms to describe the parts involved. The 540i uses the same bearings as all the other E39 models even the 520i , excluding the M5. That got the bearing out of the bottom of the carrier but the bolt was in pretty bad shape after this so I would not try this with a standard grade 5 bolt.
I will need a new bearing and collar nut. The arm is shown in the lower left of the photo. Then tighten the pinch bolt green arrow so the strut does not slide down while you are working. The puller I used was a combination of tools. This will give you clear access to all 4 wheel bearing mounting fasteners.
A pipe would allow the bearing to be completely pulled out with the bolt and be faster and easier than using the slide hammer. During hard cornering these bearings are under hundreds of additional pounds of stress. After you remove the pinch bolt, simply push this bracket out of the way. Remove stabilizer link from stabilizer, Steering and Suspension. Thanks for the excellent update, think i may be doing somehting similar shortly. It looks like a normal bearing replacement to me.
Below is a summary of the required tasks. I figure to have the bearing unit pressed on to the shaft housing that fits on to the spline. I would be pretty worried about it slipping off and careening out into the distance. You've at least convinced me of the way to proceed, although it was not where I wanted to go. Stay far away from a hammer in this or you may chip the race or weaken it and cause premature failure.
If the machine shop has something to bear against only the inner race as they press the hub in, the bearing will be undamaged and you are good to go. If this is your first time, you should budget 3 hours for the job and plan on spending two hours for the first side and 1 hour for the 2nd side. I then used a mechanics stethoscope to poke around. Be sure not to scratch anything that will stay on the car. Fit the new wheel bearing assembly into the spindle and tighten the four Torx mounting fasteners. Well I finally finished changing the wheel bearing. Make sure the parking brake cable is fully released before removing the calipers.
Typically, the circlip can be re-used but we offer it in case you would like to replace it. Be careful not to wash away your alignment marks with solvent! Remove the nut from the swaybar end link where it attaches to the aluminum bracket. The splined driveshaft should then go through pretty easily clean and lightly lube the splines. The front wheel bearing always comes with the hub fitted - you can't buy the hubs seperately the rear bearings however are different and you can purchase the bearing and the hub seperately. If you waited too long and your bearing is exploded, you will have to do some extra work to fish the parts out. All of our performance parts are those we would and do! Figure 8 Front Wheel Bearing Removal-You can use a pry bay to lever up on the strut and move it up and out of your way but be careful not to break the wheel speed sensor.
There is a reason for this, the proper way to remove the drive flange from the wheel bearing is using a press but you will find it near impossible to undo the bolts that hold the wheel bearing on to the hub with the drive flange on the half shaft. Install the axle shaft, tighten axle nut and fit the lower half of the spindle into the lower control arm. Due to inertia the lateral weight transfer moves more weight to the bearings on the outside of the turn. This distance to the top is less than 10mm. Remove the 36mm twelve point axle shaft nut green arrow from the end of the axle. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.